The buzzing Abbeydale Road area has welcomed a host of new bars and restaurants recently – so unLTD popped along to The Teller to sample its ‘classy but distinctly modern vibe’ and ‘down-to-Earth Yorkshire hospitality’
Parked directly in-between the recently opened Two Thirds Beer Co., The Gin Bar at Vintedge, and The Broadfield, innovative new bar/restaurant The Teller is a highly anticipated addition to the area’s thriving food and drink scene.
The result of a joint-vision shared between Andy Mastin, Alec Stephens and chef patron Sam Armitage, the spacious venue – formerly an antiques store – exudes a classy but distinctly modern vibe, something which nicely reflects their goal of bringing quality fine-dining into a more laidback, pub-style atmosphere.
Down to Earth Yorkshire hospitality is very much on the menu and whether you’ve arrived for a craft brew in the bar area or a sit-down meal, you can expect the same convivial welcome from the staff.
Speaking of the menu, the driving force behind it, Sam, made his name on the Steel City culinary scene as The Milestone’s youngest chef and also gained invaluable experience at Michelin-Starred establishments such as Fischer’s Baslow Hall. Working with him on an exciting selection of small plates is his handpicked kitchen team – young, talented and insatiably passionate about their work.
A minimal waste policy is strictly abided to, so not a single morsel is spared. You can see and taste this in action from leftover sourdough bread being turned into vegan-friendly crackling, to their trademark vegan masala cauliflower curry made using the florets, leaves (crushed and used with curry salt) and cores (pulsed into cauliflower rice).
Vegans are well-catered for across 16 small plate dishes on the main menu, but meat-eaters certainly won’t be disappointed either. We sampled the best of both worlds with a sweet, palette-cleansing celeriac waldorf, beautifully presented with fondants, candied walnut, pickled grape and pear, followed by the pheasant kiev – a chunky cylinder of rich breast, served with charred corn and a peppery, bittersweet tarragon sauce.
Both dishes were fairly faultless, but the bragging rights had to go to the sumptuous scallop cannelloni and the previously mentioned curry roasted cauliflower. The fresh, meaty scallops with a subtle hint of smokiness were superb, while the much-lauded vegan masala sauce that came with the cauliflower dish – a recipe with special family connections for Sam – impressed with its depth of flavour and tantalising tangy notes.
There are a range of self-indulgent desserts on offer, from classics such as sticky toffee pudding to the intriguingly titled ‘Lemon Meringue-ipane Baked Alaska Tart, but we went out on a high, sugary note with the honeycomb parfait – another beautifully presented dish with a thin layer of dark chocolate balanced atop a decadent yoghurt sorbet.
The foodie scene around this end of town has been flourishing for quite some time, but with the arrival of this progressive fine-dining, casual vibing hybrid it’s fair to say things have been taken up a notch. Do believe the hype.
theteller.co.uk
